Peas, Peas, Peas

Edward cooks many of the same things in the same ways: broiled and baked fish, soups, salads, and vegetables with eggs, but I’ve noticed that he varies those dishes with seasonal ingredients. Indeed, I think Edward is pretty more »

Baby Chickens and Potatoes

  Over coffee at Tino’s Edward pointed out that May 7 was the day World War II ended. He told me he was on a four-man patrol in Austria that day. “I was the first scout. We were more »

Sheep’s Milk Ricotta

  It’s sheep’s milk ricotta season and Edward has been buying it ever since Easter at Tino’s, though I often find it year round at Buonitalia in the Chelsea Market. He made a couple of dishes with it more »

Week of March 28: Sweet and Sour Sardines

When Edward makes a batch of tripe it usually has a few incarnations during the week. He boiled and sliced a couple of pounds of tripe from Biancardi’s this week, then cooked it in beef stock, with frozen more »

Week of March 21

I’ve come to appreciate that asking for stories is no way to get them. Nonetheless, it’s funny what triggers a story from Edward. At Tino’s, over our coffees, I showed Edward some pictures my son Mo had sent more »

It’s Easter on Arthur Avenue

And that means it’s crazy busy in the stores. If you haven’t already ordered your baby lamb or goat, you are in trouble. Indeed, I placed an order for Neni for a 15 pound baby goat at Biancardi’s more »

Week of March 14

There used to be a fishmonger in many neighborhoods in Manhattan, but not anymore. Most fish I have access to within walking distance of my place in SoHo are sold at chain stores, like Wholefoods and Citarella. I more »

Week of March 7

In the six months or so that I’ve been following Edward around on Arthur Avenue, I don’t think I have seen him buy tuna or salmon or halibut or any other big predator fish. He always buys the more »

Week of February 28th

Edward’s first meal after coming home from Arthur Avenue Friday is always the most delicate fish, and this week, he got a hold of Maine sardines. They are at the end of their season, and a real treat: more »

Week of February 21st

Schools follow one kind of calendar, accounts another, and Ed Giobbi a third. Our week starts with Friday. That’s when he shops on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, so that’s when the week of cooking starts. The week more »