The Kitchen EcosystemPeas, Peas, Peas
Edward cooks many of the same things in the same ways: broiled and baked fish, soups, salads, and vegetables with eggs, but I’ve noticed that he varies those dishes with seasonal ingredients. Indeed, I think Edward is pretty… Read More
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Baby Chickens and Potatoes
Over coffee at Tino’s Edward pointed out that May 7 was the day World War II ended. He told me he was on a four-man patrol in Austria that day. “I was the first scout. We were… Read More
Sheep’s Milk Ricotta
It’s sheep’s milk ricotta season and Edward has been buying it ever since Easter at Tino’s, though I often find it year round at Buonitalia in the Chelsea Market. He made a couple of dishes with it… Read More
Week of March 28: Sweet and Sour Sardines
When Edward makes a batch of tripe it usually has a few incarnations during the week. He boiled and sliced a couple of pounds of tripe from Biancardi’s this week, then cooked it in beef stock, with frozen… Read More
Week of March 21
I’ve come to appreciate that asking for stories is no way to get them. Nonetheless, it’s funny what triggers a story from Edward. At Tino’s, over our coffees, I showed Edward some pictures my son Mo had sent… Read More
It’s Easter on Arthur Avenue
And that means it’s crazy busy in the stores. If you haven’t already ordered your baby lamb or goat, you are in trouble. Indeed, I placed an order for Neni for a 15 pound baby goat at Biancardi’s… Read More
Week of March 14
There used to be a fishmonger in many neighborhoods in Manhattan, but not anymore. Most fish I have access to within walking distance of my place in SoHo are sold at chain stores, like Wholefoods and Citarella. I… Read More
Week of March 7
In the six months or so that I’ve been following Edward around on Arthur Avenue, I don’t think I have seen him buy tuna or salmon or halibut or any other big predator fish. He always buys the… Read More
Week of February 28th
Edward’s first meal after coming home from Arthur Avenue Friday is always the most delicate fish, and this week, he got a hold of Maine sardines. They are at the end of their season, and a real treat:… Read More
Week of February 21st
Schools follow one kind of calendar, accounts another, and Ed Giobbi a third. Our week starts with Friday. That’s when he shops on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, so that’s when the week of cooking starts. The week… Read More
