The Favas are in!

We are finding mounds of fava beans in the green market on Arthur Avenue and the farmer’s markets in Manhattan. Edward has been making a light, fresh tasting fava been soup with them. That, and chicken soup with… Read More

Peas, Peas, Peas

Edward cooks many of the same things in the same ways: broiled and baked fish, soups, salads, and vegetables with eggs, but I’ve noticed that he varies those dishes with seasonal ingredients. Indeed, I think Edward is pretty… Read More


When I hunt mushrooms I am into motherloads. It’s morel season, and in order to really pick a lot the best place to go is the site of an old forest fire. This year I flew across the… Read More

Baby Chickens and Potatoes

  Over coffee at Tino’s Edward pointed out that May 7 was the day World War II ended. He told me he was on a four-man patrol in Austria that day. “I was the first scout. We were… Read More

Sheep’s Milk Ricotta

  It’s sheep’s milk ricotta season and Edward has been buying it ever since Easter at Tino’s, though I often find it year round at Buonitalia in the Chelsea Market. He made a couple of dishes with it… Read More

Week of March 28: Sweet and Sour Sardines

When Edward makes a batch of tripe it usually has a few incarnations during the week. He boiled and sliced a couple of pounds of tripe from Biancardi’s this week, then cooked it in beef stock, with frozen… Read More

Celery Root Pickles

My experiments with celery root are ongoing. I love these sweet, crisp refrigerator pickles. They aren’t canned as there is no USDA data for canning celery root pickles. But the good news is you don’t have to use… Read More

Week of March 21

I’ve come to appreciate that asking for stories is no way to get them. Nonetheless, it’s funny what triggers a story from Edward. At Tino’s, over our coffees, I showed Edward some pictures my son Mo had sent… Read More

It’s Easter on Arthur Avenue

And that means it’s crazy busy in the stores. If you haven’t already ordered your baby lamb or goat, you are in trouble. Indeed, I placed an order for Neni for a 15 pound baby goat at Biancardi’s… Read More

Celery Root, Apple, and Walnut Salad

I have made celery root remoulade many times but in truth I find it sloppy and too mayonnaisey. I mean, I love adding julienned celery root to other kinds of salad that call for mayonnaise, like lobster salad,… Read More