The Kitchen EcosystemRazor Clams
Edward brought me a gorgeous chunk of guanciale from Italy—the way to a girl’s heart–and a jar of grape molasses that he made. He reduces 36 pounds of zinfandel grapes down to about 12 half pints of thick,… Read More
Pasta with Broccoli Rabe Pesto and Clams
Every time Edward comes back from a trip to Italy he has at least one new recipe that he’s all excited about. Part of his circuit includes a stay at the apartment he shares with my sister Lisa… Read More
Green Bean and Mint Salad (Edward turns 88)
Edward turned 88 in mid-July, and of course he cooked his own dinner: stuffed clams, anchovies on toast, and champagne; risotto with zucchini flower pesto, broiled tuna (caught by a roofer/fisherman we know in Montauk) with scallion pesto,… Read More
Zucchini Flower Pesto
Edward and Elinor are back from Italy and settling in. The zucchini flowers are going crazy in his garden, so he has been cooking them all week, usually flavored with saffron: in a sauté with shrimp, fried… Read More
Peas, Peas, Peas
Edward cooks many of the same things in the same ways: broiled and baked fish, soups, salads, and vegetables with eggs, but I’ve noticed that he varies those dishes with seasonal ingredients. Indeed, I think Edward is pretty… Read More
Baby Chickens and Potatoes
Over coffee at Tino’s Edward pointed out that May 7 was the day World War II ended. He told me he was on a four-man patrol in Austria that day. “I was the first scout. We were… Read More
Sheep’s Milk Ricotta
It’s sheep’s milk ricotta season and Edward has been buying it ever since Easter at Tino’s, though I often find it year round at Buonitalia in the Chelsea Market. He made a couple of dishes with it… Read More
Week of March 28: Sweet and Sour Sardines
When Edward makes a batch of tripe it usually has a few incarnations during the week. He boiled and sliced a couple of pounds of tripe from Biancardi’s this week, then cooked it in beef stock, with frozen… Read More
Week of March 21
I’ve come to appreciate that asking for stories is no way to get them. Nonetheless, it’s funny what triggers a story from Edward. At Tino’s, over our coffees, I showed Edward some pictures my son Mo had sent… Read More
It’s Easter on Arthur Avenue
And that means it’s crazy busy in the stores. If you haven’t already ordered your baby lamb or goat, you are in trouble. Indeed, I placed an order for Neni for a 15 pound baby goat at Biancardi’s… Read More