The Kitchen EcosystemZucchini Flower Pesto
Edward and Elinor are back from Italy and settling in. The zucchini flowers are going crazy in his garden, so he has been cooking them all week, usually flavored with saffron: in a sauté with shrimp, fried… Read More
Peas, Peas, Peas
Edward cooks many of the same things in the same ways: broiled and baked fish, soups, salads, and vegetables with eggs, but I’ve noticed that he varies those dishes with seasonal ingredients. Indeed, I think Edward is pretty… Read More
Baby Chickens and Potatoes
Over coffee at Tino’s Edward pointed out that May 7 was the day World War II ended. He told me he was on a four-man patrol in Austria that day. “I was the first scout. We were… Read More
Sheep’s Milk Ricotta
It’s sheep’s milk ricotta season and Edward has been buying it ever since Easter at Tino’s, though I often find it year round at Buonitalia in the Chelsea Market. He made a couple of dishes with it… Read More
Week of March 28: Sweet and Sour Sardines
When Edward makes a batch of tripe it usually has a few incarnations during the week. He boiled and sliced a couple of pounds of tripe from Biancardi’s this week, then cooked it in beef stock, with frozen… Read More
Week of March 21
I’ve come to appreciate that asking for stories is no way to get them. Nonetheless, it’s funny what triggers a story from Edward. At Tino’s, over our coffees, I showed Edward some pictures my son Mo had sent… Read More
It’s Easter on Arthur Avenue
And that means it’s crazy busy in the stores. If you haven’t already ordered your baby lamb or goat, you are in trouble. Indeed, I placed an order for Neni for a 15 pound baby goat at Biancardi’s… Read More
Week of March 14
There used to be a fishmonger in many neighborhoods in Manhattan, but not anymore. Most fish I have access to within walking distance of my place in SoHo are sold at chain stores, like Wholefoods and Citarella. I… Read More
Week of March 7
In the six months or so that I’ve been following Edward around on Arthur Avenue, I don’t think I have seen him buy tuna or salmon or halibut or any other big predator fish. He always buys the… Read More
Week of February 1st
Since Friday is Arthur Avenue day, Ed always cooks fresh fish for the weekend: a whole black bass, baked with garlic and olive oil, and broiled Maine sardines, which are dressed only with salt, olive oil and lemon… Read More