When I hunt mushrooms I am into motherloads. It’s morel season, and in order to really pick a lot the best place to go is the site of an old forest fire. This year I flew across the more »

Baby Chickens and Potatoes

  Over coffee at Tino’s Edward pointed out that May 7 was the day World War II ended. He told me he was on a four-man patrol in Austria that day. “I was the first scout. We were more »

Sheep’s Milk Ricotta

  It’s sheep’s milk ricotta season and Edward has been buying it ever since Easter at Tino’s, though I often find it year round at Buonitalia in the Chelsea Market. He made a couple of dishes with it more »

Stewed Mushrooms

I never associated mushrooms with Greek cuisine before, but Neni explained to me that they are frequently eaten in the north. I’ve been exploring some Greek wines lately, and at a recent tasting, I tried what could be more »

Neni’s Flavored Oil

Neni uses this oil in salads, as a garnish, and in some dishes, like Stewed Mushrooms (see recipe in GKE: Eat Some Fresh). It is delicious, especially since she uses her own family oil. Use a good quality more »

Week of March 28: Sweet and Sour Sardines

When Edward makes a batch of tripe it usually has a few incarnations during the week. He boiled and sliced a couple of pounds of tripe from Biancardi’s this week, then cooked it in beef stock, with frozen more »